Normally, the first day in a new place we would walk around, check stuff out. But our first day on Dominique, two cruise ships (over 5,000 people!) were scheduled to be here that day, so we went to the Indian River. This morning, our driver could not pick us up early so we spent the day walking in Roseau. It was overcast and a bit rainy. We learned a lot about how devastating hurricane Maria was to this island country.

As we hiked up Jack’s Walk above the botanic gardens, we were treated to views of Roseau and its namesake river. The light-colored cliffs along the river are volcanic ash beds from prehistoric eruptions emanating from a large stratovolcano (one of nine on the island) just southeast of the city.

At the top of Jack’s Walk we reached Morne Bruce, an 18th century lookout with a cannon. The British established many lookouts on the west side of Dominica to warn of French warships (Jack’s Walk is named for their flag, the Union Jack). There is also this Christian monument, painted as white as the sky on this overcast day.

A panoramic view of the city with the cricket stadium on the right.

Back down the hill, we walked past this rather unkempt cemetery.

The parliament building also houses the president’s office. The building appears undamaged by Hurricane Maria, but it has probably been repaired or rebuilt. After all it was a priority to maintain the government functions.

Here is a view showing a totally devastated building and a refurbished building. There is a lot of construction activity related to hurricane damage, but complete restoration will take many more years. Rebuilding will be more challenging if climate change increases the frequency and severity of these types of storms. Our driver told us that thousands of residents left after Maria, never to return.

Both the Anglican and Catholic Churches need new roofs and probably have other significant damage.

In the city, this type of damage is fairly common. The upper story of a building is demolished but a business has resumed operation on the floor(s) below.

This tiny gas station can fuel vehicles on either street via long hoses from the pumps.

The Fort Young Hotel is the only premium hotel in Roseau; it has been refurbished and serves nice meals in its bar and restaurant. The brass cannon on the ground beneath “Fort” is a reminder that this was part of the British system of forts and lookouts.

From the Fort Young Hotel, the southernmost point on Dominica, Scott’s Head (named after an 18th century British Lieutenant Governor) is barely visible in the haze.

On the way back to our hotel, we saw the market where you could buy fresh fruit and vegetables as well as this icon of American fast food (chicken is common on menus here, not always cooked the Colonel Sanders way).

• Lesser Antilles 2020