Our friends brought us to their daughter Audrey’s house, where many family members and close friends were gathered. They had rented another house close by for nine of them to sleep.

The houses are on top of a limestone plateau adjacent to a small church and cemetery.

I love how French people mix old and new, hanging laundry next to a centuries-old building.

Later that evening we went out to dinner at an Indian restaurant in Lons-le-Saunier. Twenty three people!

The next morning was the official marriage ceremony, the civil part. Only about 30 people came. Very special. Hêlene whispered some translation for us. The mayor and the town clerk officiated the ceremony. The mayor knows the bride and groom well, so he told many stories. The clerk recited the official responsibilities that the new couple were accepting by getting married. Hêlene said most of the couples nodded, realizing that the responsibilities had not changed since they were married. The clerk gave the couple a book with their names, the date and an official seal of marriage. Hêlene explained that every family in France has a book like that.

• Europe 2023