We were headed for a long driving day to get back into Argentina for another national park. Goodbye Torres del Paine, we loved your geology, hikes and plants. But first, we went to the visitor center, which had a geological garden, one of only a few we have ever seen.

The museum was really good; the displays clear and informative. Rodrigo gave us a quick tour then let us explore.

Back to the bus for gorgeous scenery. The weather was not quite as good as on our lucky previous days.

Then the border crossing from Chile to Argentina, saying goodbye to Rodrigo and hello to our new local guide, Jimena.

As we left the mountains, the terrain was beginning to show the flatter and drier character of the Patagonian Steppe. Plenty of glacial erratics evidence the presence of large ice sheets in the distant past. They look a bit like sheep, don’t they?

We stopped for lunch at Hostel Estancio El Ovejero in Cerro Castillo, where many of us enjoyed a hearty bowl of chicken soup with large pieces of chicken (including bones).

Jimena got us off the bus at reasonable intervals to stretch our legs and learn things. The first stop was at a red shrine to a local saint, Gauchito Gil who, although not Catholic, was said to have performed a miracle. The offerings to this saint are beer and cigarettes, since he was killed at a young age. Many friends in our group prayed to this young saint.

At another stop , Marta and Jimena got us dancing an Argentian folk dance, a little like a polka. We didn’t get pictures, but everyone participated. I think that knowing everyone made being goofy easier.

Being stopped by police, one masked, and being sniffed by dogs, made many of our group compare the experience to ICE agents in the U.S. taking innocent people. Not a good feeling, but it only was a short delay in our travels.

We stayed three nights in a town called El Calafate, the meeting place. The name is historic in that a big beautiful calafate tree grew here, and since ranches were huge and populations sparse, people would meet at el calafate. Gradually, buildings sprang up near the tree, growing into a town.

Our hotel was nice, an old ranch. The owners still had a few sheep.

At the hotel bar, Clare asked for an Argentinian white wine, and the bartender brought out one made from Torrontes grapes. Its flavor was distinct, unusual and good. Brian’s beer contained Calafate berries and had a funky label.

Scenes around the ranch hotel.

• Chile & Argentina