The Patagonian Steppe is arid and the ranches large. Many people struggle to make a living. We visited such a ranch, in part to compare it to the one farther north where the weather is kinder, moister.

Jimena explained that the rancher’s English was not good, causing us to pay close attention. She also said he loved questions, so we obliged.

First , the proprietors wanted us to look the part, and loaned us traditional hats and scarves. Gauchos!

Next, we helped prepare lunch, and while the lamb cooked, we toured the ranch.

The black dog rounded up the sheep, while the larger white dog was the herd’s protector. Gerardo opened and closed fences. Prices for wool depend on the breed as well as the age of the sheep.

Gerardo enjoyed showing us the old ways of doing ranch chores, including throwing bolas. Some of our group tried it as well.

Gerardo has an interesting genealogy. His grandfather on one parent’s side is his great-grandfather on the other side. Examining his family tree certainly illustrates life in areas with sparse populations.

We went back to Calafate for time off at our hotel. Brian and Clare wandered around town and tasted wine.

• Chile & Argentina