Heidelberg is on the Neckar River, a tributary to the Rhine, so we took an hour bus ride to see this awesome place.
Heidelberg castle from the town, some of the most important Renaissance constructions in the area, only partially rebuilt.
We listened to our guide, then were set free to figure things out on our own. The university is very famous, was founded in 1386.
All kinds of interesting carvings. The town was designated a “City of Literature” by UNESCO.
The main gate to the castle had pointed rods that could be released quickly on invaders.Inside the main gateThe sundial on a wall in the courtyard also had zodiac symbols.The pharmacy museum that Brian and Checkers visited in 2015Cathedral in the middle of the villageDam at the upstream end of townBridge across the Neckar RiverUniversity building and fountainHeidelberg Bridge Monkey. We thought it was a cat, because of the mouse next to it. Yet another different beer
Poem for the Bridge Monkey: Why are you staring at me? / Haven’t you seen the old monkey of Heidelberg? / Look to and fro / There you will find many more of my own kind.
To many people, the “Middle Rhine” is the high point of their journeys along this famous river, because of all the castles visible along the cliffs above the river itself. The first part of this entry is the middle Rhine. We tried to name all the castles for you, but it’s difficult. Fortunately, the cruise line gave us good maps and the cruise director told us stories of the castles as we passed.
The Deutsches Eck promontory in Koblenz where the Mosel River (to the right) joins the Rhine River. The statue of William I on horseback commemorates his role in the unification of Germany in the late 19th century.
Fortunately, we woke up early and grabbed some breads and drinks to take up to the top deck to watch the castles and cute towns of the Middle Rhine as we sailed upstream.
Castle Stolzenfels in Kapellen at 585 km from Constance, Switzerland (headwaters of the Rhine River)
We noticed large numbers on the Rhine River, which tell us how many kilometers we are from the source of the Rhine, and helped a lot in identifying the castles as we sailed past.
Lahneck castle in Oberlahnstein at 585 kmMarksburg Castle in Braubach at 578 km
The most fun was seeing how the architecture of the castles varied. Some of the differences were due to the approximate date the castle was constructed, other differences were in style, from the identity of the castle owners.
Sterrenberg and Liebenstein castles in Kamp-Bornhofen at 566 km were built by two enemy brothers; the wall between them was built to quell the feud.
So much complexity of history here, most of which did not affect the world, just the sites along the river. Many of these areas were tiny kingdoms in their own rights.
Maus castle in Wellmich at 557 kmRheinfels castle in St. Goar at 556 kmKatz castle in St. Goarshausen at 556 kmLoreley monument and rock. Legend has it that as the beautiful virgin girl sings to the boatmen passing by, they are so distracted that they fail to negotiate this narrow part of the Rhine Gorge at 555 km.Castle and church, we can’t remember the namesSchönburg castle in Oberwesel at 550 km is also a hotel.Pfalzgrafenstein castle in on an island near Kaub at 546 kmStahleck castle in Bacharach at 544 kmAnother castle we could not identify Sooneck castle in Niederheimbach at 538 kmA variety of colors on buildings that front the riverReichenstein castle in Trechtingshausen at 534 kmEhrenfels castle in Rüdesheim at 530 km
One of the challenges the cruise director prompted was to count the number of “towers” in one of the towns associated with a castle. Clare thought there were many more than the 7 official towers, because she was counting the tall architectural things (not towers, somehow) in the many churches along this part of the valley. The towers are the high points along the old walls and moats protecting the castles.
Many towers along old town walls
A few years ago, we stayed in a small town along the middle Rhine and took a ferry to see the castles. The ferry trip was crowded, and the stories about the castles were difficult to hear. This time, we were able to move around the cruise ship easily, making Brian’s photographs more clear than before.
Brian has visited Bacharach twice, the last time with Clare in 2018. A wonderful village with the Werner chapel ruin.
At the end of the Middle Rhine was the christening of the ship.
The AmaLucia was decked out in green garlands for the christening. Some local women dressed for the occasion.Upon entering Rüdesheim, the AmaLucia was welcomed by the local yacht club.An old-fashioned music machine added to the festivities.
Although the AmaLucia had been sailing for about six months, this voyage was designated for the christening of the ship; the ceremony was held in Rüdesheim. All of the passengers were invited by the owners, Rudi Schneider and Kristin Karst, to attend, but we decided to hike to some vineyards above the village with a small group.
The ceremony included this Irish blessing:
May love and laughter light your days, and warm your heart and home. May good and faithful friends be yours, wherever you may roam. May peace and plenty bless your world with joy that long endures. May all life’s passing seasons bring the best to you and yours!
We did not attend the ceremony, choosing instead to walk through some of the vineyards and riding a gondola up the side of the valley.
Vineyards above Rüdesheim with Riesling grapes and an unidentified flower
The hike was in direct sun on a very hot day so we opted to go back into the village and ride a gondola up to the Niederwald monument, which commemorates the unification of Germany. The central figure is Germania holding a crown with other figures representing war and peace. The main inscription on the pedestal translates to “In memory of the unanimous victorious uprising of the German People and the reinstitution of the German State 1870-1871.”
Clare sat down at the monument next to a couple who spoke no English.The gondola was a bit rickety but the breeze was welcome.A small street in Rüdesheim with many restaurants and bars
Although Clare had never been to Köln (Cologne), Brian spent a week here attending the Goldschmidt geochemistry conference in 2007. Therefore, while Clare went on a walking tour, Brian went biking with a small group.
The Köln Cathedral is noted for its twin spires, among the tallest in the world.The bike tour groupA rebuilt Roman gateThe TV broadcasting tower was built to house a restaurant that never opened.Along the Rhine River, old cranes are preserved and new buildings built to resemble cranes house some of Cologne’s most expensive apartments and offices.The back of the cathedral faces the river. There are also remnants of old Roman aqueducts and restored Prussian forts. At least one of these forts was used as an anti-aircraft gun emplacement in WWII.Romanesque church in Cologne near the riverStatues and sculptures on buildings require careful study!Kölsch is Cologne’s namesake beer, with numerous breweries creating it from top-fermenting ale yeast but at warm temperature.
We started the cruise with no incidents, thankfully! And this is a special cruise for the AMA Waterways line – the christening of the AmaLucia, the ship we are on! So, the owners are here, the children who are the “godparents” of the ship are here, lots of travel and food writers, you name it. And all the guests are treated like gods. Not bad!
Our first excursion, still in Amsterdam, is the Floriade, an ecological extravaganza that occurs every 10 years.
Of course, loads of flowers decorated everything, even though we are here in mid-Summer, rather than Spring, when the flowers are at their best. No tulips here now!
More interesting are the green displays, explaining how the people of Amsterdam are dealing with their water and pollution problems. Their difficulties are vastly different from those in Colorado; however, climate change is affecting them in a big way. Now, all the rain and snow water come down the river at almost the same time, with very little water flow the rest of the year. Many of the canals they have built are actually reservoirs for water storage, so the city has water year round.
The uses of plants, many to decrease the local temperatures in urban areas, are exciting to explore. These solutions are not easily transferable to Colorado, but the ideas could be adapted. Clare felt like she could have stayed at the Floriade extravaganza for days and not learned everything it has to offer.
The ship is new, with slight improvements from our trip 4 years ago on the Danube. Brian noticed spare propellers, and asked about them. Of course these are unique to the ship, and if one breaks, they need another immediately. The next one is our room. Cozy. And the restaurant is first class. The usual draft beer is Bitburger from from Bitburg in the Mosel River region of Germany.
Our only lock on the Waal River, part of the Rhine River delta in the Netherlands, required only a few meters of elevation gain. It held at least 6 standard size ships. As you can see, the clearance between the ship and the lock wall is maybe ten centimeters!