Minga translates roughly to cooperative work, and the term was explained as times when friends need to get things done that require more people than just the family. Usually, this involves the work as well as meal preparation and sharing.
The previous night, we tried “abalone” as an appetizer, which did not taste like the California variety. We later learned they are called loco here, and look different from abalone. The mussels were also different.
Loco on top, abalone on bottom Shoe mussel and other musselMussel farmSalmon farm. This has enhanced the economy of Chiloé IslandBlack faced ibis, who like to laugh at humans. Flowers in the town squareRobin on the exercise equipmentUNESCO Church, older than the last one.Fire bush and monkey puzzle treeMonkey Puzzle tree, decorated with ornaments
Our Minga happened at Raùl and Ilse’s house. They fed us fry bread (have to keep the workers happy), then they told us about their lives. Raùl loves to build miniature boats, and he sells them for displays.
Carter, Doug and Renee with fry breadRaúl’s boats hanging from the ceiling Comfortable gathering place with fire in centerChris, Pam, Carter, Sue, Tom, Suzanne and Paul listening to the family’s stories while enjoying fry bread.
We learned how Ilse spun wool from their sheep and which natural materials she used for the dyes in her handicrafts.
The box is a measuring tool, like a bushel Raúl watching Ilse demonstrate spinning woolIlse shows her spun wool to PaulElephant garlic (not as strong tasting as the garlic in our stores)A few of the 15 varieties of potatoes from this area
Raùl is quite the farmer, selling his potatoes and garlic, with a field of wheat on a neighboring property. He showed us his mill.
Grinding wheelMill stonesMill to make flour is operated by a gasoline motor.Limestone with gastropod fossils
Raùl explained the flag of his people; the seven powers of Venus are the rain, the wind, the sun, the sky, the sea, the thunder, and the forest.
Raùl’s people’s flag: blue sky, brown earth, green sea. Star is Venus. Seven powers of VenusRaùl and CarolinaBee enjoying a fuschia flower
Our group helped prepare food, which needed to cook for a couple of hours before consumption.
Choppers, Tom and CarterGrater SueChoppers, Paul and BrianVery large pan for the broth. Steaming potato dumplings Suzanne, Chris and Carter layering the dumplings with leavesRaùl’s garden: garlic and potatoesRaùl showing us the plant with the leaves for the stewDancing!Dancing!Raùl, Carolina, Pam and Ilse
We then got a tour of their property.
Wooden anchor with rock for weight Apple pressThe Camahueto is a legendary bull in Chiloé mythologyThe Pincoya is a female water spirit of the Chilotan SeasThe Trauko is an ugly being with superhuman strength. He carries a magical staff and an axe.
We took a boat across the bay rather than the bus to get back to Castro.
Walking to the boatSea LionsCormorant on a buoyCormorant condominiums Chiloé Island’s famous houses on stiltsA beer to end the day.
Marta and Carolina were impressed with the weather, and changed our plans to go to see penguins and other fascinating birds. First, we took a ferry to Chiloé Island, where we would spend two nights.
Our bus boarded this ferry.Bridge being built to replace the ferriesChris, Renee, Clare and DougAnother ferry leaving the place we were about to dock. We walked along a beach for a while, seeing many gulls and sandpiper-like birds.
After we drove through the town of Ancud, we wandered around, exploring the island.
Where the Magic Begins, sign with Deb next to itLupines!Cannons in a small squareGiant penguin sighting near Ancud!Church on the square
After a short walk, we found the place where our tour started, to take a boat around three islands to view the birds in the nature preserve. Getting on the boat was a unique experience; we climbed onto a platform on wheels, and three guys pushed the platform out to the boat.
We boarded a boat like this one.No dock, so this wagon was used to board about 10 people at a time.Our bus drove onto the sand!
Now, we were rewarded with sightings of beautiful birds.
GullAnother boat near the first islandView back to the beachSteamer ducks don’t flyMagellanic penguinPair of kelp geesePair of red-legged cormorants and a pair of ibisPenguin encounter!CormorantsSwimming cormorantMagellanic PenguinMarching to the sea!Penguins lying downMany gullsNeotropic cormorant barely visible on the dark rocksView of a rock windowCormorants Penguin and gullRock “Bear” that appeared after a large earthquake in 2010
Lunch was at a restaurant on the beach — great food and views.
Lunch at the aqua-roofed restaurant on the beachBrian tried a new beer
The bus ride to Castro was uneventful, but then we stopped at a church that is part of an UNESCO World Heritage Site, consisting of 17 churches. The first we saw, completed in 1910, showed a melding of native people’s construction talents with European styles. This is one of the last churches built here.
Outside of the church was always painted bright colors, to be easily seen from the ocean. The ceiling is constructed like the native people’s boats, upside down. Other parts of the ceiling were more European in style. Pillars and walls all made of wood. Altar to MaryMany statues of Jesus wear purple robes, which are changed every season.St. Michael expelling the devil. Design in woodConfessionalWooden pedestalFountainHomes on stiltsBlack necked swans
Around Castro.
Our hotel adjoined a casino.View of estuary between our hotel and the main squareThe cathedral and ugly mall building from our hotelA beer with a label better than the product!
When we got up this morning, both of the large volcanoes that had been visible last night were obscured by clouds. People who live here told us this is normal. But by the time we were ready to start the day, they had emerged again. Just for us.
Volcán OsornoGreat weather conditions!Map showing lakes and volcanoes in this areaVolcán Calbuco with lots os Scotch Broom in foreground
The short bus ride to the center of the national park, Vincent Perez Rosales, was filled with stories from Carolina, our local tour guide. She gave us ways to see and feel the forest from a Chilean point of view. We walked a quiet trail, Carolina picking leaves from certain plants.
Beware of eruption warnings!Volcán Tronador, near the border with ArgentinaSome leaves that were steeped into the teaPam and local guide CarolinaTom helping Carolina make tea from fresh herbsTree trunks with interesting shapes, some with vines spiraling up.Bamboo and canelo treesDeep rain forestSmall river in rain forestCurled fern leavesWaterfall on Petrohué RiverAnother waterfall, same riverWater eroding basalt. Volcán Osorno, with evidence of rock or snow avalanches
After the rainforest, most of our group took another bus to hike up to Crater Rojo, a two mile round trip and slightly steep hike.
Nice trailView from near topMarta, on the other side of the craterOur destination Ski liftLava flows at a high angle on this stratovolcano
We had a few moments to change clothes before going to the music school sponsored by OAT’s foundation. Our group put money together to purchase strings for instruments and a few blank music books for the school.
Children from the school with our group.
After the concert at the music school, our group was split into two, seven in each half, each to visit a family and share a family dinner with them. Our hosts were Jacqueline and Roberto, in their fifties with two grown children (in college). They have been hosting OATs group for four years now, about one group a week. They were both charming and friendly. They showed us their back yard — all native plants, and gave us Pisco Sours before dinner. Then Jacqueline taught us how to make cheese empanadas. We each had to eat the one we created.
Dinner was a normal Chilean dinner for families; you would not find this in restaurants. A potato and squash stew with sausage slices on top. Delicious! Everyone talked about all subjects, answering questions, joking, like a happy family dinner.
Jacqueline teaching us to make empanadasRoberto singing, mostly to Jacqueline
After dinner, Roberto got out his guitar, and they sang beautiful duets at the table. The love that passed between them, in their eyes, was strong. Later, Roberto started playing Cat Stevens! So we all sang along. So much fun. We got along so well that Brian gave Roberto his business card, in the hopes they visit us in Colorado sometime.
Volcán Osorno in the eveningGreat name for a hotel in Puerto Varas!The shield of the town
Annoyance averted, crossing the Andes, moonlit volcanoes
This morning, we were awakened by a frantic message from our trip leader Marta that a bridge was being worked on, and we had to get going earlier than planned to avoid an enormous detour. Skipping breakfast at the hotel, scampering into the bus bleary-eyed, watching the bus driver taking curves a bit quickly, we made it past the construction. Passing also involved Santi (local guide from a day ago) showing papers to police indicating that our weight of vehicle could cross before 8AM. Twice, I think. In any case, the OAT team marvelously helped our bus through the construction zone. Marta called a restaurant, before it was open, left a message, and got us deliciously fed in record time.
Every wheel has an auto inflator. Our breakfast place. Police station in Villa La AngosturaOur bus for the crossingBus driver’s maté
Santi told us to watch for the change in ecosystems as we climbed into the Andes. As we drove west, the number of trees increased dramatically due to larger precipitation. Along this pass, paralleling a railway that Teddy Roosevelt took around the turn of the last century, the scenery was incredible.
We passed an area of dead trees and learned from Santi about a 2011 volcanic eruption that coated Bariloche, the town we spent a few days in, with ash. Mostly pebble-sized pumice and smaller ash, but the photos were impressive. One showed our local guide sweeping the pumice behind a bush (not under a rug) in his backyard.
Our group was lucky with the weather, because we were able to see the volcano that caused the eruption, more inland, eastward, than most of the Andes chain.
Puyehue, erupted June 2011 through April 2012. The ash plume from the eruption circled the globe, interrupting air travel in the southern hemisphere.Ash from the volcanoAsh and pumice partly buried a retaining wall.Lots of ash
We went from one National Park to another in a matter of hours. At the top of the pass, the continental divide, we could walk from Argentina into Chile in a second.
Argentina signNational park in Chile named for the volcanoWe are in Chile, but had to pass immigration authorities a few miles into the country.Placque commemorating the peace treaty that established the border between the countries
We stopped for lunch at a car museum.
Lunch featured free-range chickenNew bus and driver in ChileThis museum was adjacent to the restaurant.Many Studebaker carsBrian’s father had a similar VolvoA rare vehicle!Official tree of Argentina?Close up of the flowers of that tree. Lush vegetation on the Chilean side of the continental divideInteresting rock exposure Rock pillar, probably the throat of an ancient volcanoWe stayed two nights in Puerto VarasOur hotelChris and Suzanne, our friends, learning how to make a local drink, pisco sour.Brian enjoying both Pisco and a Pisco Sour
Marta took us on a tour of the town. The beautiful woman statue, a sacrifice to the gods of the volcano, was our goal.
The woman holds her arm out to the volcanoMost of the women in our group,with arms toward the volcano. MuralLooking up at a stairway that we had just come down. Chalk muralChris and Brian in front of a mural. Puerto Varas was founded in the 1850s by German immigrants. This is their association building.Volcán CalbucoVolcán OsornoTwo wines, both Carménère grapes, locally grown and produced accompanied our seafood dinner.