Big travel day, from end of river cruise to limestone karst mountains. A long way.
Bridge over Yangtze River at ChongqingTrain stationTrain schedules Vending machinesQueuing for train
We rode on the fast bullet train again.
First view of limestone mountain
This was the part of the trip that Clare was looking forward to. We learned about these fascinating geomorphic features during a lecture at UCLA during graduate school.
The city is surrounded by pinnacles of limestone.
The city of Yangshuo was opened for tourism before other areas in China, and shows influences from western cultures,
The style of women’s formal wear was quite different from what we had previously seen, showing strong influence from India and represented the Tang dynasty.
Starbucks!
We tasted local foods at dinner together at Lucy’s, a restaurant frequented by tourists including Intrepid groups. Many left their marks on the walls.
Today, we hopped onto a bus to go up and up to see “the most beautiful cave in China”. Many other tour busses were also present.
Morning view from our windowView further upstreamUp a lot of stairs and view back of our cruise ship or one that we docked next to (this occurred at most ports)
We walked over a tributary to the Yangtze River to get to the cave.
Bridge over tributary Small cave above tributary
Snowy Cave is 1644 meters long and has six scenic caverns. Ever since its discovery, it has aroused great interest among the speleologists and some other well-known scientists home and abroad. It was voted as “The most beautiful cave in China” by the Chinese National Geography Society.
Pathway through Snowy CaveHole meaning cave entrance, we thought
Puzzled, we approached a caged area over our path to the cave. Monkeys! They fed monkeys gourds around the people cage, to enable tourists to get great pictures of the monkeys. Many monkeys were carrying their young.
Monkeys feeding on gourds
A few in our group were given canes to help us negotiate the steep slippery steps. We were also told we could turn back if it seemed too much.
First speleothemsColumn with warning signSnow in a cave?Colored lights on speleothems
This cave tour was the fastest we had ever been on. Explanations disregarded scientific ideas for whimsical stories. Being a slow walker who likes to look around a lot, Clare was often pushed from behind by other tour groups.
SpeleothemsMusician’s HandsPenguin
Signs before we entered the cave indicated that both calcite and gypsum speleothems were present, but no gypsum was pointed out to us.
We can’t help but take a ton of pictures of these beautiful geological formations.
Sweating in a caveWhimsically, map of the China Mongolia border with armies on both sides. Mongolia, to the north, has a higher concentration of soldiers.
When we exited the cave, we gave back our borrowed canes and followed the path back to the bus.
Another monkey on the way back The river was rather low on our way to Chongqing.
Our last night on the cruise ship, our group went overboard with wine and laughter. We all got quite silly, especially Sharron, Anna, and Julia!
When we arrived at Chongqing we were no longer on a still reservoir but a strong flowing Yangtze River.
Our cruise ship had this map on the first level. It must date from cruises before the three gorges dam was built. Our cruise begins in Yichang and ends in Chongqing.
From before the dam was built (Shanghai at right)
Our (big) boat trip on the reservoir behind Three Gorges Dam was beautiful! Paleozoic sedimentary rocks on all sides, some slightly folded. After sailing some at night, we woke up in the second of the main gorges.
Goddess PeakSailing through the Wu Gorge before breakfast
The boat sailed smoothly, just like river cruise ships in Europe. We could only tell we were moving by watching the scenery go by. Which was why we were there, of course.
Walls of tilted limestone, with lots of solution cavities In the Wu GorgeSlightly folded thin sedimentary layers
After breakfast, our whole group switched to a smaller (medium) boat in Wushan to sail up a tributary to the Lesser Three Gorges.
Big boat similar to the one where we slept 4 nightsBeginning the Lesser Three Gorges tour
A guide pointed out different peaks or other features, saying their names, “because it looks like” something. We didn’t listen too much to these stories. Misty Gorge was named such because it is often misty, though (see map below).
The dam is far to the right of this map. Mineralization from dripping water“Hanging coffin”
Brian and Clare took the optional small boat trip to view the Mini Three Gorges.
Small boats for mini gorgesName of one mini gorgeDrippings green with algae?Name of one mini gorgeStalactites-like drippings from limestone layers
The cave-like formations were often hollow, making us wonder about how they formed.
More limestone dissolution features on rock wallsLadder down to water level for fishermenWalkway patterned after ancient walkways Ancient paths were covered by rising waterOther boat in the mini gorgesMust take this photo!“Hanging coffin” burial site of ancient people (actual burial removed to museum)
We were talking, like we always do, about the rocks, how old they are, etc. so the tour guide wanted to take our picture with a special sign.
The mountains don’t seek us, we seek the mountains.
We loved smoothly sailing close to rock cliffs before going back to our group on the medium boat.
Small boat going through gorgeOur group on the medium boat
In the narrow Mini Gorges, the water depth was 30-40 meters; before the dam was built, these small tributaries had less than a meter of water.
Looking back to a bridge from the medium boat
We went back to the big boat and kept going upstream (west).
Rocks that are more severely deformedChinese characters on a rock wallMonkeys on a walkwayMountain and gorge featured on 10 Yuan billDockedSupply ship alongside
Three Gorges Dam. Not only does it hold back more water than any other dam, it also has a boat lift (elevator, not lock). Brian and Clare wanted to see both, surprising Peter, our guide, because no previous client of his had ever wanted to do the lift before. So, he came along with us and Julia.
Dam goes deep into granitic basement rockFountain at the dam Bridge over Yangtze River, boats waiting for locks
A guide explained that regular locks are used for larger ships to go past the dam: 3-4 hours. Smaller vessels (less than 3000 tons) use the lift: 40 minutes. A set of fish locks are being built, too. All Chinese flag ships use the locks or lift for free!
3-D model of dam and reservoir
We wandered around the visitor center for a while before heading to the lift.
Meters tallFully loaded container ship in a lockTop of the ship lift from the upstream sideUpstream of dam with old water lines and ship exiting the lift
We visitors got to get on a boat and take the lift up! Julia was so excited; she had not imagined it was possible. The lift was not opened to passenger vessels until 2016, after testing of emergency evacuation procedures.
The lift is designed to help small and medium-sized ships, with a maximum displacement of about 3,000 tons, to traverse the dam. The water level behind the dam is up to 113 meters higher than the downstream river.
The lift is equipped with a chamber, which has a pool of water 120-meters long, 18-meters wide and 3.5-meters deep. The chamber, its mechanical systems and the water weigh 15,500 tons altogether.
The lift as our boat approached
These short videos replay the main aspects of the lift.
The gate behind the ship being raised to seal in the water supporting the ship
Many cables lifting the ship in its tub, with counterweights moving down
A screw mechanism turning
The gate at the front retracting
Moving into the reservoir
It was a slow, methodical process taking around 45 minutes.
View of the dam from the boatTickets for the Three Gorges Project tours
The boat then traveled back to our cruise ship dock.
Julia celebrated her birthday Cruise ship crew welcome address
The Captain’s welcome address was followed by crew members performing ballroom-type dances, and later inviting everyone to join in silly dances (conga line and chicken dance).